...sometime in 2011-2012, below, cell phone messages between myself and a friend surfer, Steve Johnson the nomad cell, who worked very early and did the surf check at dawn and sent me video and photos - and I worked at night so I sent him late day surf check. We gathered a lot of surf and sea filming and made the film series DANGER ARCHIVE and ELEMENTAL and many more.....
Just leaving
Glassy goin out
Oops too much water wait
Tarry: to linger or remain behind
Going to steel world
An earlier dissertation on conditions: butt crack reef manifesto
Butt crack reef manifesto: read and heed especially you bald headed has beens and wannabes
Do not paddle out if i am out. Do not sit outside on your eight footer and go on the mushballs then back out on the sick ledges 'Do
At the variety store. The skeletons mìght work w/siren theme. Need seaweed
Neat stuff @ the variety store.
Loosing track dont want to re send cant loose what you never had overload
Try and some succeed. Got one
Alien artifacts found at remote beach
A mysterious artifact discovered on the d slide bridge job
No problema muchacha
"visceral beings on the water"
A true story
Contrary to general belief, the bonobo is our closest relative to the apes. Excuse me- the great apes
Score.ceiling high a frame rts. Four fat nugs all alone. Pumped. Cant find those shots from last fri
Crazy horse was a mighty warrior. A chiefton to the plains tribes.he never allowed his picture taken
Yes the earth did shift on its axis
Let me sleep inside your crystal kitchen
Huntress chases coyotes and clings to life on the rocks twenty ft surf. Spoiled
I once drank a bottle of wind in twenty min but threw all up. What a waste
Little girl growup hunting no fear no brain
U rule hold back good go big fill the page got frothy excited going out mavs
I called around for a board for Mavs but the wind will be nuclear. I got a response from a guy but he already gave me one of Shauns and I sold it. I did get a first hand account of Sion M., the waves, the hold down, and how everyone blew the guy off because it looked like a normal wipe-out. Nathan had to commandeer a ski because no-one was even paying attention. those S.C. guys couldnt get him out of the water, so my friend had to pick up the body and carry him up the beach! A woman called it in on her cell but told the rescue guys that it was in the harbor, so my friend yelled at her till she just ran away. sure enough, the rescue team was at Ketch Joanne in the harbor. They worked on him and my friend said he just walked away in disgust, shaking his head as people came at him with questions about what happened. Still pretty shook, and yes, Sion had a vest UNDER his suit.
New swell bad wind sth east manana. Walk mussell
Grab doggies
Shakey mucho vino
I spew, therefore i am
Not much to describe three waves
Mussell early the smell of sulfer all night in my sleep? Outside is the japanese scariest movie rashomon. Going to see whats on the other side. Will tarr
My objective always Has been to as close to the natural world as possible
Red tide bloom montara
Wind chill factor now to thirty need ambient lite for blue seven good
Planetary grouping to be visible eastern sky may predawn low on horizon got binoculars
Meteor cosmic debris
The atmosphere protects us from cosmic debris
Yes beneath the surface of liquid sky
Cant find skully
To the sea to the sand and foam
Walk voodoo?
Look its full of stars
sorry, was listening to bird song and thinking of you. Sophie was at the bookcase next to my bed all night, so I moved and she grabbed a huge rat by the head before I could dispatch it. Now she has it outside torturing it. I have the door open so I can breathe.
Sick pony tainted love+she liked my dancing
beware indeed. I have named the red Kodak "Pandora.”
Cruised the pier after surf check where an asian couple or woman rather, jumped off the sidewalk and threw a judo kick@ my window. I stopped and ran after them, the young man said "no problem sir" so they left quickly in their Prius before I could molest them. Home now shaking and waiting for the P.D. They know me around here.
Pandora back+up card. Just got rear ended slide took a stick and whipped him